Steamed Whole Sea Snails in Shell

Whole sea snails, still in their shells, with the meat filling the opening — a broad, dark, glistening lobe edged in cream and orange where it meets the lip. The shells themselves are banded in brown and fawn with a fine spiral of ridges running out to the point.

Steaming is the simplest way: give them ten minutes or so, then pull the meat out with a skewer and eat it with ginger, scallion and a little soy, or slice it thin and dress it cold. The foot is firm and springy with a clean, faintly sweet brininess, and the darker meat near the opening is the richest part. Serve three or four per person as a starter.

• Whole sea snails, shell left on
• Meat filling the shell opening
• Firm, springy texture with a sweet brine
• Steam and pull, or slice and serve cold

Keep frozen at -18°C or below. Thaw in the refrigerator, then cook thoroughly before eating.