Fresh Salmon Fillets Skin On

Salmon fillets cut thick and left skin-on, a bright, even orange crossed by fine white lines of fat. The flesh is glossy and close-grained with the fat running evenly through it rather than pooled in one place, and the silver skin is still intact along the base — the mark of a clean fillet.

Cook it skin-side down: a hot pan, a little oil, and enough patience to let the skin crisp and the fat render before you turn it. It also takes well to a short spell in a hot oven, to steaming with ginger and scallion, or to being cut into cubes for a cure. Serve it just short of done — it carries on cooking off the heat.

• Thick skin-on fillets
• Bright orange flesh with even white fat lines
• Close-grained and glossy
• Pan-fry skin-side down, roast, steam or cure

Keep frozen at -18°C or below. Thaw in the refrigerator and cook thoroughly before eating.